Next season, Kris Van Assche has created a sweet and humble boy, who is transformed to man with impeccably sharp cuts, luxuriously dark tones and ankle stroking fur coats. Suits are embroidered with beautiful patterns from Dior's archive. Lily of the valley's were placed on visitors seats at the show, and these delicate little beauties can be found sewn on to the Dior man's pinstripe suits. Dainty polka dots play a key role also, head to toe; entire polka dot suits and embroidered onto creeper-come-brogues.
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2. Saint Laurent
Hedi Slimane takes us back to the height of rock 'n' roll with this tartan and animal printed, creeper tapping, sequined collection. The Saint Laurent boy takes inspiration from an array of musical legends from Jagger to Turner. There's a basic uniform of black skin tight trousers which is brought alive with super glam pieces like ruffle fronted shirts, teddy boy creepers in black, gold, red, silver or green and most notably the tailored jacket. Green sequins, tartan, stripes, pink glitter, leopard print or studded leather; take your pick boys. (Or girls, if your feeling this collection as much as me)
3. Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton is a breath of fresh air. There's a noticeable break from black, with grey, coffee and mustard tones working as neutralisers for the colour of the collection; blue. Ceruleans, navys, royals, skies.... and bright reflective shades. Texture is also out in full force with wool, snakeskin leather, angora, felt and metallic embroidery. Amongst tailoring and knitwear, there's a strong sport influence with lace up hiking boots, leather monogrammed bags and lightweight jackets.
4. Phillip Lim
There's a subtle western-equestrian feel to Phillip Lim next season, with embroidered denim, wood prints, heavy leathers and flannel textures. Like at Vuitton, there's little black, and instead mustards and blues. The stand out pieces of the collection, for me, are the fresh white triangle neck details on the wood print shirts, remniscent of cowboy's bandanas.
5. Givenchy
At Givenchy, Tisci brings together art, sex and sport in an exciting melting pot of textures and patterns. Basketball graphics are printed on to almost every item, be it a zip detailed or leather textured jumper, or a jacket with basketball court markings. Vests and caps continue this theme whilst more abstract patterns; much like watercolour paintings; soften the masculinity which is exhorted by the rest of the collection.
photo's by lea colombo, jacques habbah (dazeddigital) or morgan o' donovan (i-d vice)
+ fantastic article by christina cacouris on i-D about male models
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